Once fall hits in the USA, the countdown begins for the hallmark holiday movies, seasonal music, and decorations in the lead up to Christmas. But once you leave the USA, the seasonal culture changes and each place celebrates uniquely. This is the joy of being an expat and learning the nighe traditions of every place. Take it down to the southern hemisphere (where the seasons are flipped) and christmas happens in a very different way: it's summer! And it is certainly a summer christmas here in Namibia.
I'd like to first admit that I'm not big on Christmas. I don't come from a snowy place like Michigan. I didn't live a traditional USA lifestyle (military childhood, foreign mom). I can't get on board with the commercialism of the season (see minimalism). Plus, we don't have children or family around that would permit the pageantry. So it's hard to feel the sparkle in the same way as other people do.
But while we were stationed in Copenhagen, I started to get a glimpse of why it would be a lovely tradition. Watching snow fall from the cozy indoors. Seeing Danish homes filled with eco decorations like felled branches, real berries and fresh holly. Buying locally farmed (and re-plantable!) Christmas trees. In short, Xmas felt more doable, natural and almost necessary to manage the oppressively shorter days and colder nights.
But we've also lived in Argentina where southern hemisphere flipped my expectations. There the heat builds, days get longer and summer holidays start in December. And sure, the culture carries a hint of Italian and Spanish christmas traditions, certainly the Catholic mass, some rich foods and seasonal songs. But there's more of sun-bathing, pool and family togetherness than the hanging stockings or jingling bells.
Here in Namibia, I'm surprised by the lack of a culture during holiday season. Sure, Namibia is such a tiny country - just 2 million people that are highly stratified by economic holdings and scattered on the outskirts of the giant Kalahari desert. There's not enough people to build big sweeping cultural traditions. And the hot summer weather certainly doesn't lend itself to warm sweaters and christmas lights.
I'm always flabberghasted when I walk into a home goods store around this time of year and see one wall flanked with christmas ornaments, holiday tableware, and the other wall stacked with brightly colored beach towels, and pool accessories! The ultimate battle of opposing seasons. Colonial clinging at it's best. Certainly, commercial exploitation at it's worst. But I'm not sure what to make of what people actually do.
I did attend a holiday party once last year. I brought some Christmas trivia games which no one except me seemed to know the answers to, and some seasonal indoor decorations which were politely dismissed as we sat outside enjoying the breeze on the patio. At one point, someone confessed to me that she had only recently learned that reindeer were real and not fictional animals like dragons! At the end of the night, Xmas in Namibia felt rather blasé and extraordinarily relaxing and lazy like true summer.
From what I can tell, it seems there are celebrations but they are split along the ancestral cultural lines. The German descendents here seem to follow their traditions with trees and decorations indoors. The Aafrikans (read: old Dutch) hold tight to their christian protestant church events and choir performances. The Oshiwambo, Damara and Nama and other tribes just embrace the summer hoildays and visit family up north or further south according to what they can afford. There is one thing that is universal - everyone seems to do a feast of some sort.
I asked a new friend here about her childhood experience. She only has memories of sunglasses and bathing suits, swim sessions and walks along the beach. I can see how there is a lot of joy in feasting on juicy watermelon and resting in the shade. Namibia is so very hot in summer!
So that's what the Mr. and I will be doing this year. Hiding from the heat, gorging on fruits, sipping cold drinks and enjoying these vacation days just as they are. No tinsel, no fanfare, but I hear the streetlights downtown feature safari animals and I can't wait to take a drive to see them from the refuge of our air-conditioned car.
Extending a sweaty but cheerful humbug to you wherever you are for the holiday,
smarti
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